Merry Christmas and Happy New year

I’ve been busy with the Extra, very busy. Sheeting the fuselage bits was one job I wanted to complete in as short a time as possible. The process does not really lend itself for ‘a bit now and again’. These past few days have given me the experience I needed in as short a time as possible. From now on, I know how to do the job and the time required to do it. As always, preparation can be a lot of work, but it will show in the final result.

One thing I should have remembered from days gone by, is to soak sheeting in water, to allow it to follow tight bends. If you don’t, you run the risk that a sheet splits when you least want it. So, soak the sheeting, put it in the form (with loads of tissue to absorb the water) and let it dry overnight or as long as it takes. For the fuselage parts this is definitely a requirement. Dennis (Carden-Aircraft) suggests to use ‘easily bendable’ sheets. Yes, but what do you do if yours don’t?

And, if you do soak the sheeting in water, make sure the glue has cured for a few days. Great fun when you end up with all separate sheets again.

I’ve encountered a few more ‘you really do not want to do that again’, but they’ll have to wait for another day..

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Winter is here, it’s snowing!

Carden Extra 330

.. big windmill at the front

The last couple of weeks I’ve been workiing hard on next years toy. You can see progress over at Aerobatics NI .
To give you a quick flavor of the state of this 104″ Carden, here is it with the big windmill up front..
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Su-31 in the making

DSC00497

I promissed myself to start flying a bit more aggressive, in order to speed up the braincell’s response. So, out with the old and slow, in with the fast and furious.

A few bits of leftover foam were hastely asembled, and form a distance it looks like one of Richard’s Su-31′s. I decided that my old Midi-Klak was due for retirement, and did the unthinkable. Ripped out all it’s guts and did a full equipment transplant in under an hour.

When I put the resultant contraption on the scales, I was quite amazed. Less than 105 gram with battery? something must be wrong. So far I haven’t found the problem, all surfaces move, the fan on the nose works.

DSC00496

Of course it’s not painted yet. I thought I might leave that till after the first few flights. If it survives, I might have a go. Got a fresh new airbrush for X-mas, but as always, the tools do not an artist make. Even squirting a bit of colour on a bit of foam can be quite challenging.

Much reading of websites explaining ‘ HowTo Learn Airbrushing in 5 easy steps’ is needed.

I already found that ‘clogging of your airbrush’ is one of the facts of life. Deal with it. And the 5 easy steps involve 500 hours of ‘Praktizing’. Ah well, live in hope.

(more as we find time)

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Building some competition grade Lipo packs.

‘t Is that time of the year again, foggy and cold outside, nice and warm in the shed. My previous indoor lipo’s are starting to show their age. Some are now in their second season, and don’t have the stamina or endurance they used to have. (much like their owner I guess)

Anyway, below are some pics showing how I make packs that weigh less then 12 gram. The cells I use are Fullriver ones, the present lot says: 20C/240mAh. This is considerable more than the previous version. (This rating would translate in 4.8 Amps)

Tray

..a tray full of Fullriver cells

Wires

I'm a 2mm connector man, feel free to use deans connectors it that's your style.

Ok, soldering iron hot? There we go: I prefer to prepare the connectors/wires first, that makes sparkings later less likely. (second pic)

SolderTabs

not shown, but shorten the terminal that receives the wire by approx 3mm.

Next tin the terminals. (third pic)

Add the wires, make sure you get the polarities right! What I did not show is that I shorten the terminal by about 3mm, so that when I fold over the tab, it looks like in the picture. (fourth pic)

Terminal

..so it's easier to fold over the terminal, without the danger of it cutting in the cell.

When you’ve done both cells things look like this: (fifth pic)

WiresAdded

One plus, one minus, right??

Next I add some Kaplon tape to cover the terminals. This is very expense stuff, so you might want to use something else. paper tape will also work, providing you add an extra layer. Then it is time to join the cells together. Make sure the two center tabs are long enough to prevent stress on the connections when you fold the packs together. I secure the packs with some cello-tape, that appears to be adequate. We’re talking competition packs here, I have to assume that weightsaving is the goal, and ann understanding of technology is present. One thing you will notice, there is little in the form of strain relief on the wires.
Anyway, the final reuslt is seen in this last pic. Sub 12 gram! And that is with wires that could be shorter and thinner. I probably could make the next series 11.6 gram.

PackJoined

Joining the celss. At least 3 hands required.

Weight

Lousy pic, but honestly, 3 packs weigh 35 gram!

ps: The usual disclaimers apply: If you burn down your shed, it’s totally you own fault. Same goes for crashes, lost cats, missing planes/children/wives. Following my advise is not smart. You’re on your own if you believe or do anything I say!

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Autumn days

DSC00471Looks like the BAC field is getting a major turnover soon. It was supposed to happen last year, but we were lucky. Not sure what the new strip is going to be like, but I imagine it will be a while yet before it’s flyable. So, in order not to be totally stuck, plan B was activated, and a Expressfly YAK 55 was put together over the weekend.
There’s absolutely nothing to say about putting these planes together. Other then, once again, I put my stab upside down. Luckily I noticed before the glue set too hard. Maybe I should RTFM for a change?
Biggest challenge next is the cowl. Also repaired one of my ACT receivers tonight, the antenna came loose last year. (Moral: do not use tape to stick them to the fuse. Bad Idea.) Next I have to find a few suitable servo’s, slightly more upmarket then the previous versions. I mean, they moved, even in the right direction, but whereto and how fast were mysteries that I never unravelled. Then again, maybe they were simply cR@p. For power: my 2200′s are still ok, and a slightly larger motor then the one I had in the Flash should provide ample fun. Size? dunno, 10×5 something? Ask Richard, he has them in the boot of his car..

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Dust no more..

There’s a lot of balsadust creation coming up shortly. (someone suggested it’s not actually dust, but weight leaving an airframe) Either way, I still had time left, so an hour was spend making a very rough box from a bit of leftover 1/2″ ply and a fan motor that was lying around somewhere.

Not the best of my carpenting efforts, but it’ll do.

The innards with fan

The innards with fan

Filter, size determines box. Easy to remove for cleaning.

Filter, size determines box. Easy to remove for cleaning.

Final result

Final result

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Mad scientist or what?

Probably the first bit, not sure about the second bit. What else is a man to do on a rainy and blustery day, than to look around the shed and do something interesting? Of course those Who Understand These Things will immediately recognise this contraption as a trial run for the ultimate vacuum pump. Building one has been on my ToDo list for a long time, and due to the arrival of the Carden kit, it was about time I got it done.VavuumTrial1
The pump I use is a decent commercial one, normally used in the airconditioning industry. If you give it a while, it will go down to pretty deep vacuum, far lower then we need for sticking balsa to foam. But, as with most things in life, having too much vacuum is not a problem. This trial version was built using some 100mm drainpipe cuffs. However, I could only find flat end-covers. I thought that’d be alright for a test run. I went through the trouble of using silicone-kit to stick all bits together, except for the cover with the connection on it. In hindsight far too good. Even without any goo, you get an almost perfect seal. The rest of the bits are limitswitches, and of course a big indicator gauge. Digital would have been fancier, but this was cheaper.

One thing that got me is the fact how people measure their vacuum. Many times you see references to a value, but it is not made clear if this is an absolute (starting from pure vacuum =0) or from atmospheric ( atmospheric minus so many inches mercury) When I tried 7.8″ Hg = 200 mbar on my meter, I got a decent pressure (looking at my foam bit in the bag)
Of course, the pressure switch I used works the other way around. When it says ’200 mbar’ it is actually atmospheric pressure minus 200 mBar. (mbar, Hg? many ways to skin a cat. Find a conversion utility to convert to a value you prefer. VavuumTrial2
A well, it’ll do for low pressure things. But, the scary thing was the deflection of the endcaps.. They held, but do I want to risk an implosion when I have a wing under vacuum? no, not really..
So, back to the scary option I considered first. An empty CampingGaz tank. Still had one in the attic. After some prodding of it’s delicate bits, I was reasonable sure it was empty. The next step in the process can not be described in detail, but suffice to say it involved a big hammer, a large screwdriver and quite a bit of muscle power. The end result was that I had a vessel without checkvalve. There are no flat surfaces on the cylinder, so it will take a lot of vacuum.

..will be continued..

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NIAA- reflections..

It’s been a very loong time since I won anything, so winning the basic was a bit of a shock to the system. For me it means that this was the result of 5 liters petrol. Think about what 50 liters could do!

BigYak

But kidding aside, it also helped to have Sean as my caller, even though I still have to get my brain used to flying and audio input at the same time. (2 things at the same time?? Am a bloke, only one thing at the time please, anything more gets confusing!)

Strangley my scores do show what I practised most, very stange… ;-)

Loopings, why so bad? Trying to hard to correct heading and forgetting the rest mostly. Should have kept them tighter, more speed, easier to fly.

Roll. Don’t even know where to start. Must have been the worst ones ever. ;-( No real idea, other then that I’m less comfortable going right to left. Needs loads of work for sure.. Also KE is in need of some adjustment, but have not gotten round to that yet.

Now the spins. I know they were horrible, but you try to spin that Yak. It refuses. Simply doesn’t want to. Added to that the fact that I did not want to risk a dead-stick by pulling the idle to far back, and you simply have a ‘spin’ that does not want to start until you force it. With full up elevator, it simply rocks the wings and start coming down. Adding rudder, it goes into a wingrocking circle. Blipping the throttle, not much luck unless to really give it a good blast. So, yes, they were bad, and need some tinkering! I tried today with even larger elevator movement (60 degrees). No luck. Rudder is already at full deflection. So, tricks are needed!

Other then that, I think I will try a larger prop (23*8) to see if I get some more pull. Today I did some prophanging, and even though it hangs nicely, I need almost full throttle to stay there. It certainly does not have the ‘oomph’ of a MVVS-85 (Evolution for those so inclined) But that has been the story all along, weight. At present my options for further weight-loss are limited. Most anything that could be replaced/chopped or removed has already been attacked. The only options left now are in the engine department, lighter prop, lighter spinner, lighter ignition battery, lighter tank (less fuel) I now have enough fuel for 20 odd minutes, which is a bit of a waste for a 2 minute schedule. (Need to be smarter next time, Don’t fill it up!)

Of course, I could replace it with a MVVS-a_bit_bigger, but do I really want to? Maybe better to learn how to fly this one as it is..

One thing that has improved the wing trim is adding some heatshrink on the wingtube. The tube is now rocksolid inside the fuse. In the past, you never knew where the wings would go, and that resulted in endless trimming sessions, that would have to be repeated next time the wings were fitted. Luckily the wingtubes are a better fit.

I also made a jig for checking deflections on ailerons, to make sure both serov’s track, and give the same deflections over the whole range. (don’t beleive for one second that any two servo’s with the same input will give the same deflection. It’s electronics!)
Of course I did the ailerons on the QQ-Yak, but I think I will do the elevators on this one next. Using two bits of wood taped to the elevators suggest things are not too bad, but a bit better never hurts.

It’s been a good week all in all, lots of things learned, lots of opportunities for improvements.

;-)

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NIAA competition preparation.

This has been a long month. Started off with some strange bug that floored me for 2 solid weeks. Gave me plenty time to practise the schedules in my dreams. Then a week from barely able to move, to tinkering about. That gave me more time to prepare machine and man.
Then, last week, the stuff of dreams, the weather changed to something I remember from my childhood. Sunny skies!

No time was lost to declare that I really needed another week to fully recover, since I was in no state to fly. (That’s my benchmark for being healthy, and my GP agreed!)

I thought I wanted to fly the comp with my QQ-Yak, so I put most efforts in that.

Tuesday: Absolutely no oomph at all, I can barely do a looping, let alone anything else. Decide I have to change the exhaust system to what it originally was. (The QQ-Yak geometry had forced my to use an extension on the exhaust port that was actually too small for this engine, throttling it considerably. Earlier in the year this never seemed to be too much of an issue, so, if it aint’ broke, don’t fix it. ( I’ve not looked at the head yet, it might be that the outlet valve is clogged up.) Anyway, time is pressing, dive into the box of bits and see what can be created.

Most of the bits that ‘could’ be used are aluminium, the YS puts out a fair bit of heat at the exhaust port, so, alu-solder it is. Got some from B&Q stuff, melting temp appears to be right. It’s for ‘soldering alu window frames’ etc. I’m not too convinced, but then I would not expect it to say ‘fix airplane exhausts’. After a bit of cutting and bending and filing I have something that looks like it could work. Soldering (for lack of a better description) Alu is fun, because it’s melting temp is very low, and you can’t see it’s about to collapse into a puddle. Add to that different kinds of alu, different sizes etc, and it becomes a ‘I’m not too happy with this, but its still one piece’.
Exhaust-badweld

Wednesday: 3 flights, and the exhaust bits unsolder themselves. Mostly due to obvious ‘cold’ joints. Definitely more ‘oomph’ , we are on the right path. However, despite considerable differential on my ailerons, I have the sitiuation (or so I think) that a half roll to the right needs considerable left rudder to keep things on track, while a full roll appears to go straight. Tried aileron-diff the other way, tried it every way. QQ-rudderCan’t work this out in a hurry, and decide to compensate with rudder for the time being. Later, when putting the plane in the car I notice a strange gap in the rudder.. Can’t be true, hinges pulled out?! In hindsight, I used PU glue (just to try) to stick them in. This was a Bad Mistake!  In other words, I wasted a lot of time trying to compensate for a loose rudder ;-)
Since the big Yak was there too, I decide to do as many touch and goes as possible, to get over my tipstall fears. 3 20 min sessions of continuous touch and goes, and I am convinced that loosing that extra pound has reduced my wingloading enough to make things ‘happy’. I also note in the back of my mind that it flies the schedule much better then the QQ.

I know I used proper alu-rods before, and hunting around I find them (or something similar) again. But will they arrive in time? For time being I decide to use some JB weld to stick bits together, I might get a few flights out of it.

I also spend an hour considering putting my MVVS 26 on it. CG might be a slight problem, for the rest it should be possible to make the conversion. Estimated time: at least a full days work.  Decide in the end not to bother, I might end up with nothing.

Thursday,  Yes, indeed a few flights. 2 exactly. But, I’m still don’t get the feeling that the YS delivers what it used to. Could it be finally cooked? (I got it second hand in 1998, put a new 1.40 head on it at that time), It was always quite powerful. Now it looks like a 1.10 delivers more punch.
Yaks

Big Yak is doing well, however the prevailing winds make it hard to practise a full schedule both ways. I resort to doing the individual turn around sequences up and downwind, and since the bits in the middle are straightforward loop/roll etc, they should be ‘easy’. Those end bits need a lot of practise. The stall turn is difficult, I have to keep almost full throttle to just before the stall. Any earlier and it becomes a mess. Time is short, make the best of it.  With the aid of my newly designed spreadsheet, I readjust all my TX-curves, making ail/elev softer around neutral.

On the supposedly last flight I notice on takeoff that my rudder is looking funny!? Chop the throttle and on closer inspection I find the rudder hanging on one hinge. Oops. This reminds me of a story where someone lost an elevator, under slightly different circumstances, but still. I count my blessings and decide to head home for a quick fix.

Friday:  Wow, Alu-solder arrived! Get out all the tools and try again. One of the supposedly great things about this stuff is that it can cover holes. And boy, I need that! Ever so carefull, I start building up and gluing all the bits together, and after an hour I do have a pretty solid looking exhaust! I’m not going to polish it, just get on with it. On the strip just after 1 o’clock, and all looks very promissing. Full power for 10 mins and nothing comes unstuck!  Check the needle again for full power, it’s producing a lot of smoke. As always, turn it rich, and then carfully lean it out till just before max RPM (using the tach) All looking good. Takeoff is fine and then 6 feet in the air, engine chokes. Juggling the throttle does not help, it’s going in the direction of terra_too_firma with no speed. QQ-CrashDoing the best I can I have to watch the undercarriage doing it’s bit. I can see it happen in slow-motion. The legs bend backwards by about 3 inches, then a load crack. and the cowling takes the rest of the hit. On inspection the damage is relatively minor. The U/C mounting plate broke where it is supposed to break, no other damage to fuse. Cowling is a different matter, but nothing a few bits of glas can’t fix. But, it’s Friday, and no chance to get that done before tomorrow.

So, it’s Friday, 13:30, and only the Big Yak is flying well. So be it. Go for it. I manage to burn almost 3 liters during the rest of the afternoon, and then something that has never happened before: I ran out of Petrol! Given that in the past it has taken me months to empty a can, I could not believe I went through a full 5 liter can in 2 days. Ah well, it’ll have to do.

Saturday 0600: Off to NewBuildings, where I arrive in a dense fog by 0900. The rest of the story is elsewhere.
At least I’m now totally convinced, big planes do fly better. I’m letting the QQ rest for a week, then see what I will do with it. Regardless, I will strip the engine, to find out why it’s performing so miserably.

Moral of the story? There most certainly is one. I’m sure you can work it out yourself. ;-)

pics to follow, got to get ready for another session this afternoon!

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Build a Blaster

I’m building another one, and this time will try to document things.

This one will have a fixed rudder, as per the latest thinking. (Birds don’t have rudders, do they?)

In order to add the rudderless fin, I need to modify the back-end slightly. first insert a balsa plug (9mm round) to allow a nice clean fit of the new rudder. This one is not symetrical, hence the extra balsa and support to make it all fit.

Balsaplug

I always like to wrap a bit of spiderwire around places like this, stops the boom splitting. (so far)

Tailwrap

Make sure the elevator if far enough forward to clear the rudder! Don’t leave it to chance, measure!
ElevSupport

Clean up the wingsaddle, remove the sharp edges (only add weight) and make the hole for the aileorns servo cables large enough.

SaddleCleanup

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